I printed this model at .05mm layer height. This is a 3D printed magnifying glass printed using an SLA printer using clear resin. The surface of the print after a layer of enamel should be even, smooth, and consistent. You can download the STL model of the magnifying glass I designed from thingiverse. A future experiment will be to spin the lens at a high RPM and apply a coating at the center of the lens. In my case, you can see that the light towards the centre is quite uniform: If you used Taulman T-Glase but didn’t manage to get such a uniform light diffusion, you can try printing the part again increasing the nozzle size and reducing the temperature. According to Taulman, this will produce a clearer print with improved optical properties. This includes not only this blog post but also the STL files which I have produced after many hours of work. If you would like to use my work for commercial purposes, please get in contact with me. The first step in the process was to 3D print the models. 2 people found this helpful. Spray enough coats until the surface of the print is smooth and optically clear. Fortunately for me Hobby Creek also makes a Universal Holder Arm which looked easy to disassemble so I bought one of those and basically removed the reusable zip-tie and kept the screw. ! Free Magnifying Glass 3D models for download, files in 3ds, max, c4d, maya, blend, obj, fbx with low poly, animated, rigged, game, and VR options. 70º heated bed temperature with kapton tape. Perhaps someone will find it usefull for something. After I successfully managed to replace the transistor, my subconscious mind had already made the decision: I was going to make an illuminated magnifying glass arm! I did some digging through my old junk cupboard and found one of these ubiquitous helping hands with a magnifying glass on it and dismantled the damn thing. The lens is usually mounted in a frame with a handle (see image). I also figured that connecting all of the LEDs in this approach would not be easy, as I would’ve had to squish the cables around the screws. Now its your turn to refine this and improve upon the process. Does it actually make the lenses as well! 5 years ago Even if the surface of the print is dry to the touch, chances are the inner layers are still soft, so don't touch or apply any pressure to the print or you will permanently ruin the enamel coat. If you don’t have a dual extruder, you can print each part individually and glue the core to the diffuser with some sort of cyanoacrylate or even hot glue. The reason for the diffuser being completely solid is because that way I can take full advantage of the internal reflections produced on T-Glase, but if you’re going to use another type of material you might need to print the diffuser hollow. The final STL files can be downloaded here. If you’re interested in making your own magnifying arm, you can download the STL files and print them yourself. From basic office supplies, such as printer paper and labels, to office equipment, like file cabinets and stylish office furniture, Office Depot and OfficeMax have the office products you need to get the job done.Maintain a well-stocked office breakroom.Save on printer ink and toner to keep your office efficient and productive. Starting with Windows 10 build 16188, you can turn on or off to show a floating transparent magnifying glass when Magnifier is idle for 3 seconds. Or you can use your own design. ( Log Out /  to Magnifying Glass… After you spray if you see a bumpy surface you are either under spraying or you are spraying too far away from the surface (the enamel is semi dried and is loosely adhered to the surface). The electronics of this project are very simple, it is just an LED circuit with 12 LEDs in parallel and a current limiting resistor in series with the supply. I imagine using this especially to burn things would lead to that discoloration and degredation fairly quickly. This is great! patricia beall. Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. Science. The motivation for this project came when I was building my new dual extruder 3D printer (which I used to 3D print the models I will later show) and somehow managed to short out the fan pins and burn an SMD … Open the file in your 3D printing software and print out a copy. We have a huge range of Illustrations products available. Magnifying Glass free 3D model. …. 4 years ago. Healthy teeth with magnifying glass. With all the decisions made and the models generated, it was time to get on with the 3D print and the build of the illuminated magnifying glass. However, industrial 3D printer operators are increasingly looking to glass as a reliable printing bed material. Download Magnifying glass in hand (880473) today! Engineer by day, Maker by night. To do this, I stripped a cable and introduced it through each groove, finally soldering it to the anode or cathode respectively. * *Yes, yes, 3D printing uses the metric system and filament is measured by the grams and meters. Did you make this project? If you’re still wondering about the result in this particular case, it’s 22.9Ω but the closest resistor I can buy is 27Ω. Please be aware that this work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. It indicates, "Click to perform a search". Make crafting easy with craft & sewing lighting using a floor lamp, table lamp or magnifying lamp. See reviews, photos, directions, phone numbers and more for 3d Systems Corp locations in Burlington, MA. The spray can itself has no UV protection details but looking at the Home Depot description it claims it does "Excellent UV protection for projects". As you can see on the following picture, the light diffusion is quite nice on clear T-Glase: Unfortunately, once I made the decision, I opened a small Pandora’s box of my own. (This is the same way that our 3D printers prepare for your 3D prints) Use the Torch App to activate the flash on your iPhone and a magnifying glass to focus the light into a … In this post I will explain how to 3D print and build an illuminated magnifying glass for a Hobby Creek Pana-Hand. 3-D printing pen lets you create artwork, repair items, design jewelry, build models and more. I've had a few coated items next to bright windows for a few weeks with no noticeable deterioration or discoloration. Oct 12, 2020 - Having a murder mystery or detective-themed kid birthday party? I currently own a Hobby Creek Pana-Hand which allows me to have not only one extra hand but a gazillion of them ready to obey my every wish and command. 3D illustration 3D rendering of an unhappy cartoon boy with a broken arm and leg sitting in a wheelchair. Due to slight differences in the LEDs, one may take more current than the other, and can get destroyed (or at least will be non-uniform brightness). I will probably 3D print a different case since mine suffered damage during shipping. Reply Or you can use your own design. ... but practical and easily understood introduction for any software engineer seeking to delight the consumer with rich 3D interactive experiences on their phone. Imagination meets reality with the 3Doodler Create+ Juku 3-D printing pen. Next Prev. Optimized speed control helps ensure your finished project looks just how you pictured it would. They have always fascinated me! Change ), You are commenting using your Google account. On your iPhone or iPad, go to Settings > Accessibility. With Magnifier, you can turn your iPhone or iPad into a magnifying glass so you can zoom in on objects near you. Choose from top brands like Mighty Bright and OttLite at JOANN. You might like to use this printable magnifying glass template for your invitations and party decorations. I designed the lens and the monocle frame, chain, and clip in Solidworks, CAD software that we use a lot at Formlabs, and then printed it on the Form 1+ SLA 3D printer. I also used a brim to increase the adhesion of both the ooze shield and the prime pillar. You *cannot* use a single current-limiting resistor for multiple LEDs in parallel like that. (Form1+ from Formlabs). Benchy is a small 3D printed model designed for testing your 3D printer’s accuracy. ( Log Out /  As mentioned before, I used blue PLA for the core and the lid, and Clear Taulman T-Glase for the diffuser. You might like to use this printable magnifying glass template for your invitations and party decorations. An illustration of a magnifying glass. Lightly spray an even coat on one side of the print and then on the back side of the print. The third design worked pretty well on every aspect: the size was just right, the LEDs and the magnifying glass fit really well, the connection between the LEDs was relatively easy to make and the diffuser (which was completely empty) worked pretty well. Unfortunately, at this point I came to the conclusion that white PLA for the diffuser was not the best idea as, even though it diffused pretty well. With the printed parts ready, the next step was to add the LEDs and solder them in parallel. Shake your can of Crystal Clear Enamel for a good while (3-5 mins). If you spray enough enamel that you see drippings, you are over spraying. Clean the surface with distilled water and air dry or use a lint free wipe. I've reduced the contact area as much as I can in my software, but still it is an issue. The main reason for this is that I needed the PLA to be printed on top of the T-Glase as the other way around wouldn’t work due to the terrible adhesion when printing T-Glase on top of PLA. I used Simplify 3D to generate the G-Code and this is the resulting preview: Even though the print worked, it was certainly not an easy print. Since Simplify3D doesn’t provide a way to generate different parts of the brim with different materials and the adhesion between T-Glase and PLA is far from perfect, the prime pillar decided to make a run for it, resulting in a mess of spaghetti T-Glase. Hang dry for about 8 - 12 hours after your last coat. I guess the next test is to leave a coated piece in direct sunlight for a few hours and see what happens. It has also been interesting printing multiple materials as that was the main goal I had in mind when I decided to build a printer with a dual extruder. Magnifying Glass free 3D model. If you weren’t satisfied with my explanation, maybe this link can help, but I wouldn’t know as I haven’t even looked at it. You probably can't. ... A magnifying glass. A magnifying glass is a convex lens that provides a magnified image. If you don't have access to an ultrasonic cleaner you can cure resin by exposing your 3D print to UV light (sunlight) for a short time. Don't try this at home, kids.  For the power supply I will be using a μUSB breakout board, since I always have a couple of cables lying around the table. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. I use a Micro Soft Wire Cutter to remove supports. Share it with us! Model available for download in # format Visit CGTrader and browse more than 500K 3D models, including 3D print and real-time assets. Change ), You are commenting using your Facebook account. Impressive! Old one broke, some quick OpenSCAD, a screw and as good as new. You can do this by swashing your print in alcohol. T-Glase is famous for being difficult to print with problems ranging from terrible overhangs, irregular extrusion, flimsy layer adhesion and, to make matters worse, T-Glase has very little adhesion to PLA, so the dual extrusion idea was going to be quite difficult. Tap Magnifier, then turn it on. Here is a video of the 3D Printed Magnifying Glass burning a leaf. Once all the LEDs had been soldered together, I soldered the resistor to the μUSB breakout boar.The positive cable was then soldered to the resistor and the negative cable to the breakout board itself. Laboratory. If you’re like me and you haven’t yet mutated a third hand, you will probably find it useful to have some sort of alligator clips stand to facilitate soldering or tinkering. 4.0 out of 5 stars 6. Modelling the glass holder as I envisioned it was probably the most difficult part. This will reduce layer visibility and greatly increase clarity of your lens. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3NXvE6GcOU, Participated in the First Time Author Contest. The second prototype was another failed idea, but it allowed me to understand how to better design the diffuser since the small diffuser was not very effective. I have had great success in removing uncured resin by using an ultrasonic cleaner filled with +90% isopropyl alcohol. The rotation of the lens should evenly distribute the coating on the surface reducing any distortions or unevenness. Free 3D Models. 61 3D Magnifying glass models available for download. 14 day loan required to access EPUB and PDF files ( Log Out /  Due to the parallel arrangement, each LED has the same voltage but, in very simple terms, the current is shared amongst them. The following diagram is a simplification of the final circuit using only two LEDs: Now the important part in this circuit is to get the current limiting resistor value right, otherwise we will either risk reducing the lifetime of our LEDs or simply not have enough brightness. Unfortunately printing with multiple materials presents some challenges which need to be overcome by either making a “dual colour friendly” design or making a large number of calibration prints to get the parameters exactly right. Do not worry that the surface is milky or cloudy. In my opinion Simplify3D is probably one of the best slicers out there, but I believe it still needs some work in order to support this type of prints. I could probably come up with a number of additions which would have helped, but the most important one I think would be the ability to print a brim on either the ooze shield or the prime pillar using the extruder assigned to each specific feature. And I usually have to sand my pieces after removing supports due to scarring from where the supports touched. Access to a SLA type (resin) 3D printer (Ex. Scale the lens in your CAD program, using calipers or the width dimension stamped on your old frames. Similar Models . This will ensure your can is evenly mixed but not too agitated to introduce air bubbles on your print. Custom optics for 360 degree cameras. Post was not sent - check your email addresses! 3D Printing is a Modern Family Hobby Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. I used this setup to get the board in place and position some solder close enough so that I wouldn’t have to hold it, but unfortunately the transistor is really small and I had to use an external illuminated magnifying glass to actually be able to see anything. The magnifying glass, or light handle as it is otherwise dubbed, is composed of four parts. Commercial License Included. Perhaps others have mentioned this, but I didn’t see any comments. If you think I’m exaggerating have a look (I cleared up some of the mess at this point, but it’s pretty descriptive): Since T-Glase doesn’t adhere to the kapton tape as well as some sources claim, I had to ramp up the temperature to 70º, which ultimately caused the PLA to warp a bit, although I must admit it’s not too bad: Printing the Lid was pretty much straightforward using the settings detailed before. Even with glasses, you may need a little help making out the fine print at times. I like to use special gloves when removing supports with sharp tools. It comes with a few different settings, so use it the way that suits you best. Wow! Report abuse. (If you downloaded a lens model, you can skip this step.) Ensure your 3D print is free from uncured resin. I’ve generated a couple of images from the different parts of the model for your enjoyment: This final design can be printed on a dual or single extruder 3D printer, although if you go for the single extruder approach you will need to glue the diffuser to the core. 5.0 out of 5 stars For my use, it magnifies the designs beautifully! This adds Magnifier as an accessibility shortcut. I also glued the breakout board to the core with some cyanoacrylate: The next step was to connect the arm and the lid using the original screw, at this point I must warn you that the screw I received on my Universal Holder Arm might be different to the one you’re using, so it might not be a perfect fit. Overall I’m pretty happy with the build, sometimes these types of projects end up producing something interesting but with little or no practical use, and probably the same can be said of most of the things I’ve ever 3D printed, but this is definitely one I will make use of. Do not over expose your print to UV light or your print will discolor and deteriorate. If you don’t have a dual extruder or you don’t want to go through the same process I did, you can always print each part individually and then glue the c0re and diffuser parts together, the result should be more or less the same. Post: Learning ROS for Robotics Programming, Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License, 3D Printed Diffuser Lights Up This Magnifier | Hackaday, 3D Printed Diffuser Lights Up This Magnifier - SHelfinger, 3D Printed Diffuser Lights Up This Magnifier | BH, Helping hands or 60mm magnifying glass| eBayÂ, 2mm x 8mm, Self-Tapping Wood Screws | eBayÂ. What better way to test the optical clarity of Clear Resin than making a magnifying monocle?. The smoother this first surface the better quality your 3D print will be as this is the foundation of your entire print. The goal of this project was to see if it was possible to create a 3D printed magnifying glass with no sanding or polishing needed. Magnifier is a tool that enlarges part—or all—of your screen so you can see words and images better. This would not be as convenient to implement as powering from a USB cable. Fresnel lens solar ovens. Yes, this project involves more than just 3D printing – it’s a real, functioning illuminated magnifying glass. Instead, you can run LEDs in series; each provides a voltage drop and when the sum of the voltage drops matches your supply, you don’t need a current limiting resistor at all; the LED chain provides its own. The enamel will dry to a clear finish once fully dried. You’ll need to wire up the LEDs and provide the actual magnifying glass as well as 3D printing the structural components. If you want to buy any of the materials I used for this build you can use the following links, although I must warn you that the eBay and Amazon links are “affiliate” links and they provide me with a negligible amount of money. Magnifying glass 3D models. The end result should look as follows: The final and probably the most exciting step of the process is to connect the arm back to the pana-hand and connect the μUSB cable. If you used similar materials you should get a pretty decent light diffusion all the way to the centre of magnifying glass. In any case, I believe that white PLA with a hollow diffuser would have been good enough with sufficiently bright LEDs, so if you try it out yourself, let me know! The calculation is rather simple, but before we can actually calculate anything we need to find out the following: With all this information, it’s now easy enough to calculate the resistor value we need with the following formula: If you’re too lazy to launch the calculator app on your phone or on your computer, you can always use this online calculator, and go to the parallel case.  As the name suggests, the current limiting resistor is used to limit the current going through the LEDs and avoid burning them. Lighthouse fresnel pieces. At this point it is important to make sure that the magnifying glass is already placed on the core, otherwise this will be a futile effort. ... For print-disabled users.